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Article: New finds of Viking Age textiles in Ukraine and Russia by Kirill Mikhailov
Mikhailovsky Monastery, Kiev, Ukraine: a Scandinavian silver fibula of Terslev type; fragments of a tablet‐woven band in silk and silver wire were found in situ on a woman’s skull (head cover or band); leather purse with silver mounts and silk lining.
Shestovica cemetery, Chernigov, Ukraine (second half of the 10th c.): male grave: seated male burial with a sword, scramasax, saddle, spear, chest, horse bit; at least five textile fragments and numerous pieces of a band with silver thread (wire with a round section) – “band, c. 1 cm wide, is tablet‐woven of silk and silver thread consisting of drawn silver wire”, “The tablet‐woven band had a V‐shaped position in the grave, perpendicular to the sword, with one part 50 cm long, a second 20 cm long and a third part 10 cm long. Its position suggests that it formed the edging of a wool mantle” with fur lining, other pieces were found away from the body, they probably were decoration of a second set of garments: “band decorated the collar of the sleeves of outer wear, possibly a tunic.”; pieces of band were found in the head area, probably part of “hat with a silver top”;
(Picture from Kirill Mikhailov: New finds of Viking Age textiles in Ukraine and Russia, p.19)
(Picture from ЯВЛЕНИЕ БИФУРКАЦИИ В ДРУЖИННОЙ КУЛЬТУРЕ ДРЕВНЕЙ РУСИ p. 153)
Pskov, Russia: ” made of linen, wool, silk and tablet-woven bands with silver thread”
Article: 10th century AD textiles from female burial Ц-301 at Gnëzdovo, Russia by Olga Orfi nskaya and Tamara Pushkina, ATN p. 35
Gnezdovo Ц-301: female burial, around 970 AD: ” tunic-shaped waisted gown with widening skirt and long sleeves with cuff s. A collar fragment 8 cm high has survived on its back. Its width with sleeves is slightly over 2 m.2 The full length of the dress cannot be determined; the maximum length of the surviving part is 89 cm. The dress is made from a fabric with a decorative patt ern embroidered with gilt threads. The main patt ern is placed on front and back parts above the waist while the skirt bears patt erned horizontal stripes. Similar stripes run along the sleeves. The entire right sleeve consisting of two parts measuring 40 and 20 cm respectively has survived. As to the left sleeve, its surviving part measures 50 cm in length. A deep pleat is visible on the back. Collar and cuff s were cut from undecorated parts of fabric. A small inner fold divides the collar in two parts in the proportion of 1:2.” The researchers have doubts about the reconstruction of the front of the dress (see article).
There’s a second silk dress, with silk lining, and a linen dress in this grave. There’s also samite silk, sprang made from linen, brown wool 2/2 twill (see article).
(Picture from ИСТОРИЯ ДРЕВНЕРУССКОГО МЕТАЛЛИЧЕСКОГО УБОРА IX–XIII вв. p. 175)
(Picture from ИСТОРИЯ ДРЕВНЕРУССКОГО МЕТАЛЛИЧЕСКОГО УБОРА IX–XIII вв. p. 179)
(Picture from ИСТОРИЯ ДРЕВНЕРУССКОГО МЕТАЛЛИЧЕСКОГО УБОРА IX–XIII вв. p. 183)
(Picture from ИСТОРИЯ ДРЕВНЕРУССКОГО МЕТАЛЛИЧЕСКОГО УБОРА IX–XIII вв. p. 187)
Alans – this includes Moshchevaya Balka – beware, they are NOT Slavs nor Scandinavians, but this article (page 86) gives a very nice overview of the textile findings, and it’s good to see this, if only for comparison.