The woolen, tablet woven band with a woolen brocade, found in Kostrup, is a fascinating find.
The most comprehensive information can be found here: http://urd.priv.no/viking/kostrup.html
Following the description, I used 4-hole tablets with only 2 holes threaded. My wool was too thin, so my band has only 11 mm width, while the original is 14 mm wide. I used 14 tablets, like in the original, and I didn’t add any borders that were not in the original band.
In the description on the above mentioned page it says, that the wool used was a 2-ply Z/S. This is often misunderstood as a description of the way the tablets should be threaded. If you look at the photo of the original band on the page above, you can see that all the tablets had to be threaded the same way.
Meanwhile 2-ply Z/S probably refers to the structure of a single thread (second level):
(Picture from Wandering Elf’s blog)
I did not manage to secure such a 2-ply Z/S wool and in consequence the “background” weave on my band hardly resembles the original.
I also did not use the “thin” figures from the pattern by Agnes Raaness (from the above mentioned page). This is because the wool I used for brocading was too thin also and they just looked wrong.
I wove 3 meters of this and it took for ever. I cannot agree with the interpretation, that the brocading is done in “soumak” technique. Soumak gives a bit angled lines, and this does not appear on the original band. Frankly I could believe that the band was woven plain and the embroidered later with a blunt needle. It gives pretty much the same effect.
Next time I’ll definitely use thicker wool for brocading.